Map & Trail Notes

Chuberi (Village Kvemo Marghi) to Nakra

Overview

Distance: 27 km
Approximate Time: 10 hours
Elevation Gain/Loss: 2296 m / 1861 m
Difficulty Level: Difficult
Max/Min Altitude: 2707 m / 844 m

Elevation Profile

Route Description

This route contains a long steady climb and descent through the Utviri Pass. Although it is not as steep as other passes in Svaneti, the distance covered makes it a very long hike. Only very ambitious and fit hikers should attempt it in one day. Spending a night near the treeline on either side of the pass may be more enjoyable. 

The route starts at the large sign with a map on it in the the village of Kvemo Marghi on the east side of the Nenskra River, just past the bridge Cross the bridge and turn left, following the road north through the village. The road curves towards the right and follows the Gvashkhara River, which will be on your left. When you come to a clearing where the river is visible (about 2km from the starting point), cross the river and follow the trail into the forest. The trail crosses the river again, and begins ascending. After 400 meters, turn left onto a narrow footpath that is easy to miss. You will pass a yellow directional sign soon after the turn.

Soon you will reach the outskirts of Zemo Marghi, and the trail follows a fence through heavy vegetation. Coming out of the forest, you will meet a clearing with expansive views over the valley on your left. To the right is a house. Pass straight through the clearing and meet the trail on the other side. Continue on this path  through the forest and more vegetation, keeping the fence on your right. Watch your step, as the ridge is steep and the path is narrow. When the trail opens up into a meadow, cross the meadow to the jeep track on the other side. Turn left on the jeep track, which you will follow until the treeline. 

When you reach the treeline, the jeep track starts becoming a bit more overgrown, but the trail is still quite visible. To your right, you will see two huts below the trail, and then pass a small lake on your left. Soon, you will reach a solitary hut. Follow the trail through the alpine meadow, following the red and white blazes to the hill on the other side, where the trail through the rhododendrons is easily visible. The trail climbs steadily upward, along the south side of a fairly deep valley. In an hour or so, you will have a clear view of the pass you are aiming for. 

Three large stones, which appear to have been arranged in formation, mark Utviri Pass, from where a small trail leads down to a lake (See Ltnari Lake Side Trail notes below). From the pass, the trail descends through the meadow to another jeep track leading to Nakra. Follow the cairns and red and white blazes until you reach the jeep track. Turn left on the track. You will cross a couple small streams before reaching an old campsite with huts which are not suitable for spending the night. Continue following the jeep track until another small hut is visible. Here, the track crosses a meadow, and may be difficult to navigate later in the season when the vegetation is heavy and overgrown. Beware of hogweed here. After about 300 m, the jeep track enters the forest and descends steadily towards Nakra. As you reach the village, you can either follow the track all the way to Nakra or take a small but steep shortcut down the hillside. The shortcut is unmarked, but the hill is easy to navigate down to the main road. 

Ltnari Lake Side Trail

From the pass, a trail leads down to a small lake with a nice camping spot and views of the mountains to the east. If you take the side trail, however, you will need to return to the pass to continue onto Nakra, as there is a ravine between the side trail and the main trail.

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Nakra to Becho Valley (Village Mazeri)

Overview

Distance: 35 km
Approximate Time: 1 – 2 days
Elevation Gain/Loss: 2411 m / 2422 m
Difficulty Level: Medium
Max/Min Altitude: 2462 m / 1176 m

Elevation Profile

Route Description

From the mineral spring or school in Nakra, follow the road downriver. Turn at your first right and cross the bridge. From across the bridge, follow the GPX track, as construction hinders the trail’s visibility (as of August 2023). Follow the road very briefly before turning left up a small hill. The trail enters the forest and leads you to a small hamlet with a three-way intersection. Follow the road to the right, and turn left shortly on a small footpath leading up the hill. The path is marked with yellow and white blazes, and crosses through the forest. When the trail opens up into a meadow, cross the meadow to a gate. Go through the gate, follow the fence on your right, and go through a second gate, entering the hamlet of Latsumba, where the trail meets a dirt road. Follow the road to a small intersection, from which you will see a fence on your right with an arrow pointing through the gate. Go through this gate, and follow the trail to another fence. The trail turns to the right along the fence, entering the forest once again, where the trail is easier to follow. 

The climb goes in and out of meadows but stays predominantly in the forest, up and over a forested pass. (Unlike the other mountain passes on the TCT, this one offers no views.) There is a short side trail to a small church, but the church is unremarkable, and the views from a little further along the TCT are better than those offered from the churchyard. Descending from the pass, the trail enters a large meadow with views over the Enguri Valley. Look for posts in the meadows to find your way, and aim for the stone buildings ahead. Right after passing the abandoned buildings of Lashkrashi, you will meet a jeep track. This is the junction for the Mt. Kva Side Trail. See the notes below for details. 

Turn right on the jeep track. In about 200 m, before you reach the cell towers, make a sharp left, and follow the jeep track about a kilometer to the village of Tsaleri, where you will see a sign with a map on it. Continue on the jeep track for another 50 m, then follow the yellow sign pointing to the path to the right, into the forest. The trail descends steeply to a small but powerful river. Several bridges have been built over this river in recent years, but spring swells often dismantle them. If there is no bridge, cross the river with caution. After the river crossing, the trail ascends steeply across several landslips to the tiny village of Kichkhuldashi, where the Vibliani family, the last remaining family in the village, has beds available for hikers.

The route from Kichkhuldashi follows a jeep track uphill, then enters the forest before descending to the ruins of the abandoned hamlet of Paledi, across the bridge over the Ladlina River, and up to the village of Gheshderi. From Gheshderi, the trail continues on the dirt road for about 4 km. Stay on the main road that hugs the hillside and ignore any offshoots going downhill to other small hamlets. After an hour or so, you will reach the larger village of Pari, where there is a mineral water spring and small market. 

Continue along the trail until you come to a junction with a paved road on your right. Go straight at this junction, on a trail that leads uphill toward the tiny village of Zagari. From Zagari, the trail passes through meadows. When you come to a small fork, take the trail leading to the right. You will soon enter the forest, and begin descending through the trees to a river. A wooden bridge crosses the river, and from there, turn left on the trail, keeping the river on your left. When you reach a meadow, turn left and skirt along the edge of it. Before you reach another clearing, the trail turns sharply to the right and up the hill. The turn is not well-marked and can be easy to miss. The trail continues along a fence on your right, and then up on a relatively steep climb through the forest until you reach a junction with a wide cart track. Turn right on this track and follow it to the village of Pkhutreri. When you reach the village, you’ll find a water source at the intersection of the cart track and the main village road. Turn right on the main road leading north out of the village. Follow this road about 500 m until you reach the main, paved road in Etseri. 

Turn left on the main road, and follow it up through the villages of Etseri. After Barshi, the paved road turned into a dirt track. Continue following this track northward and steadily ascend through the valley towards Bak Pass. At the end of the valley, you will pass a couple shepherds’ huts and streams before reaching patches of rhododendron and the rocky incline to Bak Pass. The ascent to the pass is not very steep until the last stretch. 

Turn right at Bak Pass. The trail crosses a narrow ridge before skirting around the east side of Mt. Detsili. The route has some small up and down sections here, but stays at roughly the same elevation as the pass. A slow descent leads to a meadow, from which Mezuris Angelosi Church, which sits solitarily on top of a hill, is visible. A shelter and small lake are not too far from and just below the church.  

After the lake, the trail continues a short distance through the meadow and then turns left into the forest, descending on a well-maintained forest trail. At a small picnic site, the trail turns left and becomes a jeep track. Follow the track until you see a yellow directional sign pointing sharply right to the trail towards Becho Valley. The sign and trail can be hard to see because of their location among the trees. In Becho Valley, you will find many guesthouses in the villages. 

When you reach the town of Tvebishi, turn left on the road, and follow it just past the Mineral Water Spring.Cross the bridge over the Dolra River, and continue on past Grand Hotel Ushba. At the T-junction, turn right on the road to Mazeri.

Mt. Kva Side Trail

This trail offers views of Mt. Elbrus and the Enguri River Valley and is well-worth the side trip. Having a GPX file on hand is recommended for this route, as it is not currently well-marked. IMPORTANT NOTE: The yellow signs along this route point towards Tsaleri and Kichkhuldashi, creating the impression of a larger loop. While it is possible to reach Tsaleri along this route, the path to Kichkhuldashi is not viable due to a landslide and should not be attempted. It is possible to go from Nakra to Kichkhuldashi either by returning along the same route after reaching Mt. Kva, or continuing to Tsaleri and hiking to Kichkhuldashi from there. Please read all of the trail notes and examine the GPX route and your own hiking capabilities before deciding which route to take. 

From the Lashkrashi ruins, turn left on the jeep track and continue a short way until you reach a large white cross and a yellow directional signpost for Nakra and Kichkhuldashi. Turn left on the jeep track, and you will almost immediately see a sign for the trail to Mt. Kva and a map. Continue along the jeep road until it meets with a trail leading off to the left. The turnoff is marked with a white and yellow blaze. Continue along the trail, not the jeep track. Soon, you will reach a 5-way intersection. On your left, you will see another yellow sign pointing up towards the Psud Mhash church, 100 m away. This small church is well worth the detour; the door is open, and you can see the icons inside. The church grounds offer a wonderful space for camping. 

Back at the intersection, turn left on a track leading upwards. It is not blazed, but if you find yourself not ascending, you have taken the wrong path. From here, the track takes you above the treeline, where the path narrows into a single-lane trail around and up the mountain. There are a couple yellow directional signs along the way to guide you, but the trail is fairly straightforward. The trail appears to be taking you back towards Nakra, but don’t worry, you are on the right path! When the trail intersects a small jeep track, turn right and the snowcapped town peaks of Mt. Elbrus will soon come into view. Turn right on another jeep track, and ascend to the several log cabins comprising the hamlet of Lakitanali. A water source is in the center of the hamlet, and offers the last opportunity to replenish your water until you reach Mt. Kva. Go north through the hamlet, and from here, do not follow the jeep track. Instead, make your way upwards along the various cowpaths to the ridge. There is no obvious trail here, but the direction you are aiming for is clear.

Once you reach the ridge, follow it towards Mt. Tsalgmil, keeping Mt. Elbrus towards your left. After a short time, a yellow directional sign marking the summit of Mt. Kva will come into view. From here, you have a stunning view of Mt. Skaukveti, Mt. Elbrus, Mt. Tsalgmil, Mt. Laila, and the Enguri River Valley.

Mt. Kva to Tsaleri: The path to Tsaleri from Mt. Kva is not difficult, but is unmarked. Therefore, only experienced hikers should attempt it with a GPX track. From Mt. Kva, follow the gently ascending trail, and turn slightly right on a trail hugging the ridgeline. After about 1 km, begin descending. There is a trail, but it can be quite difficult to see at times. After descending to approximately 2360 m, follow the ridgeline over a mountain stream and continue to a cluster of four wooden huts. Take caution of the dogs that live here, as they appear aggressive (although the lady who lives here claims they won’t hurt people). From here, descend on the wide jeep road for approximately 1 km before turning left on an small, easy-to-miss trail that quickly connects to the path to Tsaleri that consists of jeep tracks and forest trails. Turn right on this trail and continue until you reach Tsaleri. As soon as you reach the town, you will find a water source on your right. To reach the TCT, turn left on the road and descend until you see a yellow sign with a map, and turn left on the TCT to Kichkhuldashi. 

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Becho Valley (Village Mazeri) to Mestia

Overview

Distance: 21 km
Approximate Time: 10 hours (longer when there is snow)
Elevation Gain/Loss: 1627 m / 1806 m
Difficulty Level: Difficult
Max/Min Altitude : 2954 m / 1401 m

Elevation Profile

Route Description

The route from the Becho Valley to Mestia can be done by fit hikers in one long day, but you might consider camping on either side of the pass for a more enjoyable hike. 

From Mazeri village, walk south on the main road 200 meters and look for a blue sign pointing to a turnoff on the left towards the village of Bagvdanari. (Just after the turnoff is a white sign indicating the town limit of Mazeri, and across the street is a market that is a good place to stock up.) Turn left on the road (you’ll see a white directional sign indicating the way) and walk up the road to Bagvdanari. After passing a few houses, turn right at the intersection in the center of the village, and cross the Gulichala River (this branch is a small stream and barely noticeable). About 100 m beyond the river, turn left onto a well-marked footpath with red and white blazes. 

Follow the path as it ascends along the left side of the more powerful branch of the Gulichala, passing primarily through meadows at the edge of the forest towards a cluster of ancient ruins. Right before you reach the ruins, a white sign will point the way up the hill. The prominent jeep tracks end in the meadow right beyond the ruins, but you can clearly see tracks leading up the hill. You will pass new construction on your right as you head up towards the ruins of Guli. The ruins offer a couple camping spots and a resting place overlooking the meadows below. 

From the ruins, the path continues steeply up through meadows on a footpath, and on a clear day, Guli Glacier and the massive peaks of Ushba will come into view. After 1.5 km, you will reach a cluster of four shepherds’ huts, where a side trail towards Guli Glacier begins. (See Guli Glacier Side Trail notes below for details.)

From the huts, make a sharp right, and you will see a white directional sign pointing up the hill. From here, a GPX track will be useful due to the number of cow paths intersecting the trail. Continue following the trail and red and white blazes up the mountain, and beware of cow paths leading similar directions but remaining at the same elevation along a ridge. Continue following the blazes, and eventually you will go up through patches of blueberry bushes and rhododendrons. Continue going up along the trail until you reach a small vegetation patch. The trail goes through this patch and leads north of the pass. It turns back towards the pass, and soon you will see two blazed metal posts. From the second post, the trail to the pass is clear. Continue on until you reach the ridge, and you will see signs indicating Guli Pass a little south of you. Go to the signs, and you will see the trail following the ridgeline south toward Mt. Gul. Early in the season (before July), you are likely to run into patches of snow near the pass, as it is quite high at 2954 meters. 

Follow this trail for approximately 1 km until you reach the saddle and another sign indicating the routes to Mestia and and Mt. Gul. (See Mt. Gul Side Trail notes below.) Descend west from the saddle with caution—the trail is steep, and the rocks may move under your feet. Follow the red and white blazes down the mountainside until the grade levels out and you find yourself on the clearly trodden path. The route is well-marked, and once you reach the ridgeline, there is only a single, distinct track to Mestia. 

Halfway across the head of the valley, the trail meets the headwater of the Pushkueri River, which is steep and can be powerful. Early in the season, it is covered by a snow bridge, which should be crossed with great care. You will cross both branches of the river, and from there, the trail continues clearly along the ridgeline to the far side of the valley. 

After you have curved southward and reached the ridge, you will meet a dirt road with a sign pointing south to Mestia and north to Koruldi Lakes. (See Koruldi Lakes Side Trail notes below.) Turn right for Mestia. A hut and a newly constructed house will be visible. Continue south and downhill along the road, and soon a cluster of buildings, one of which is a cafe, and the Cross Over Mestia come into view. Descend until you reach the Cross Over Mestia and a viewing platform from which you can look down on Mestia and across to the mountains beyond. 

From here, you can reach Mestia by one of three ways. 

Option 1: Although this is the longest of the three options, it is the easiest and not nearly as steep as the other two. Turn left on the road and follow the blazes down the  dirt track. After about 1.3km, you will see a yellow directional sign pointing to Mestia via a trail on your right. Don’t follow that sign. This “trail” has been heavily eroded down the middle by mountain streams, and is neither easy nor pleasant to trod. Instead, stay on the dirt road another kilometer until you see a red and white directional sign and small wooden house on your right. This time, follow the sign to Mestia and leave the road. Continue on the dirt/stony path until you reach a gravel road. Turn left, and the road will lead you straight through the town of Lanchvali to Mestia. Once you reach Lanchvali, the road curves to the right, past numerous guesthouses and house museums. You will arrive on the main road of Mestia near Credo Bank. Turn right to reach the town center. 

Option 2: This trail is quite steep and difficult to hike when muddy. Just north of the Cross, a path (which is easier to see later in the season) leads down the hill to the left of the road. Follow this path through the meadow until you reach the forest. From here, the path descending the mountain is clear, but rather steep. The trail is marked with red arrows and red and white blazes, but they are more visible if you are ascending, rather than descending. As you descend, the trail turns from a forest trail to a stony trail that can be slick, so watch your step. You will pass two rocks marking the elevation (2041 m and 1871 m), and about halfway down the mountain, you will cross a small clearing with a view of Zuruldi Ridge and Mestia in front of you and Mt. Laila to the right. Continue down the path until you reach an intersection with a painted sign. From here, you have two options to reach Mestia. 

Option 2.1: Continue straight on the trail, and soon you will see a short trail on your right leading to a church. Just past the church, the trail descends to meet a larger gravel road with a yellow sign pointing the way up to the left on a different path to the cross. The gravel road leads straight through the town of Lanchvali to Mestia. Once you reach Lanchvali, the road curves to the right, past numerous guesthouses and house museums. You will arrive on the main road of Mestia near Credo Bank. Turn right to reach the town center. 

Option 2.2: Turn right on the trail, and continue descending. Turn left at the house with the fence, and follow the switchbacks as a meadow with numerous cow tracks comes into view. The trail will lead you down to a stream, and turns sharply left just before the stream. From here, the path hugs the stream until you reach Mestia. Pass by the paved road and another dirt road on your left, and turn left at the third road, before the stream crossing. Follow the road down to the town center, turning left at the junction, and arriving on the main road right across from Basis Bank. 

Side Trail towards Guli Glacier

This trail does not reach the glacier itself, but ends at the moraine before the glacier, passing by a memorial to the alpinists who have perished while attempting to climb Mt. Ushba. From the huts, take the path around the hut to the far left, and you will see a clear trail along the ridgeline. Follow the trail, cross the stream, and continue along the ridgeline for another 650 m until the trail turns sharply up the mountain. The trail remains relatively easy to follow along the way, but beware of numerous other paths nearby leading in different directions. When you reach a small stream, follow it, keeping it on your left, and crossing above it to a large meadow. Here, the trail can be difficult to see, but know that you are going up the mountain. At about 2650 m, the trail becomes easy to spot again, and it continues ascending sharply until a patch of vegetation with a stream beyond. Cross a small branch of the Gulichala River (more like a stream and easy enough to do on foot), and continue along the trail towards the ridge of stones ahead of you. In a short while, the trail begins to ascend rapidly, and ends at the memorial. The trail itself does continue on along the side of the mountain, but it is quite rocky in parts and unclear after a couple hundred meters. Therefore, it is highly advisable to turn back at the memorial. Return to the TCT along the same route. 

Side Trail to Mt. Gul

The route to the summit of Mt. Gul is relatively short (approximately 30 minutes) and makes for a nice side trip on your way to Mestia. From the sign at the saddle, continue straight on the trail up the mountain. The trail will meet a rocky patch, but the rocks are secure and easy to navigate towards the summit. After the rocks, you will see a trail winding up past the summit, but turning back around and leading you to the summit, where you will find a cross and a lovely view of Ushba, Laila, and other surrounding mountains. Return to the main trail the same way. 

Side Trail to Koruldi Lakes

If you turn left at the dirt road, you will see both a well-worn jeep track and a walking path going left and due north which lead to the Koruldi Lakes. The three lakes are small and not too spectacular in and of themselves, but they do make a lovely, peaceful camping spot with spectacular views of the surrounding mountains. It’s approximately 1.6 km and another 350 m of elevation gain to the lakes. Return to the TCT along the same path.

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Mestia to Adishi

Overview

Distance: 27.9 km
Approximate Time: 1-2 days
Elevation Gain/Loss: 1969 m / 1269 m
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Max/Min Altitude: 2480 m / 1396 m

Elevation Profile

Route Description

This is the beginning of the popular Mestia-Ushguli hike, and you will likely see far more hikers on this half of the trail than on the earlier stages.

From the park in Mestia’s town center, walk southeast down the road leading toward the river. Cross the bridge just past the Turkish restaurant and Dissident Kitchen, Bar & Hookah, and turn left at the map and signpost immediately after the river. 

At the first fork, turn right in the direction of Hotel Tetnuldi, which is above on your right. Continue on the road for about another 500m and bear right at another fork, toward Hotel Banguriani. Follow the road straight for another 2 km as it turns to dirt, leading gently away from civilization. 

Near the end of the road, a white sign points to a footpath that leads steeply up to the right. If you reach the abandoned Soviet alpine resort, you’ve gone too far. The climb here is steep but brief, which is reflective of the hike as a whole. Follow the markings as the trail bends up the ridge. Before you reach the top of the ridge, you will pass a large open meadow on your left, which makes a spectacular spot for exploring and picnicking. 

Continue on the path as it goes up and over the ridge. As you enter the valley, a white sign appears left of the trail and points vaguely east. There are two options: Option 1 through the villages and Option 2 above the villages. Option 1 is shorter and has less elevation gain than Option 2, and both routes join at the village of Zhamushi. 

Option 1 (the trail marked on the map; 2.8 km): Turn right at the fork and follow the jeep track to the first village of Zardiashi. Turn left on the road, and continue following it through the village of Murshkeli. Cross the stream, and continue to Zhamushi. 

Option 2 (3.7 km): Take the trail to the left to walk above the villages. There are several routes through the valley, and it is well-worth getting off the beaten path and finding your own way. Staying high is advisable early in the season, when the stream crossings are more difficult. You will pass through the village of Lakhiri, and come down to Zhamushi, where you will meet up with the main trail.

At the outskirts of Cholashi, you will see the road descending to the bridge over the Mulkhura River and continuing to Zhabeshi. The trail, however, continues straight before the road descends (a yellow sign points the way). The trail follows the river east, and soon you will see a small hut and a bridge leading across the river to Chvabiani. If you are staying in Chvabiani or Tsaldashi, take this bridge. If you are continuing to Zhabeshi, however, continue straight along the trail for another 1.5 km until you reach another bridge crossing the river to Zhabeshi. 

From Zhabeshi, the trail is marked with red and white blazes following the road south from the village, which soon becomes a path. (If you are staying in Chvabiani or Tsaldashi, there are also shortcuts that connect with the trail going southeast.) Bear left next to an iron-rich mineral water spring, where a white sign points the way. Turn left at the first intersection of paths. Continue through the forest into a meadow, at the end of which is another water source. Another 1.5 km of forest trekking, with many camping spots along the way, leads to the ridge. 

Here the trail exits the forest next to the Tetnuldi Ski Resort. Cross the road to follow a smaller road with a white sign on it. Follow this as it loops south, then east and connects back with the main road you just crossed. About 500 meters further is a white sign. Turn here onto a path on the right, which heads south along a small creek. Bear right at the first fork, and continue following the blazes along the path, passing through bits of forest and meadow. The path bends around the ridge, and soon the village of Adishi will appear below. 

You will find several guesthouses in Adishi and a few places to eat. If you intend on camping for the night, however, you may wish to continue past the village and up the Adishchala River, where there are several excellent camping spots.

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Adishi to Ushguli

Overview

Distance: 28.8 km
Approximate Time: 1-2 days
Elevation Gain/Loss: 1424 m / 1448 m
Difficulty Level: Moderate to Difficult
Max/Min Altitude: 2712 m / 1765 m

Elevation Profile

Route Description

The trail leaves Adishi heading east, following the Adishchala River on a flat plain. After approximately 4 km, it intersects the river. There is no bridge here, so crossing can be done on foot or on horse in various places. Regardless of which crossing method you choose, crossing early in the morning when the water is at its lowest is a good idea. Early in the season (before late July), it is challenging or impossible to cross by foot. Many people cross on foot with great care, but it is not advisable in early summer because the water is high and powerful even in the morning, and the rocks are slippery. 

In peak trekking season, local men usually sit around the river on their horses, and they will carry you and your packs across on horseback for about 30 lari per person (cash only; prices may vary). It costs a bit more to hire horses in Adishi and ride all the way to the river. If the river is low, crossing on foot is possible, but if the crossing looks dangerous, a horseback crossing is worth the investment.

Across the river, the trail leads up to Chkhunderi Pass. It is steep and can be muddy if there has been a lot of rain, so walk carefully. You will have excellent views of the Adishi Glacier as you ascend to the pass. From the pass itself, you can take the trail leading left and up to a small peak, which offers a slightly better view of the glacier. 

From the pass, follow the trail descending along switchbacks to the valley below, where you will meet a jeep track and several shepherds’ huts. From here, you can choose to take the traditional route or for experienced hikers, the alternate route across Lagem Pass. 

Traditional Route: Turn right at the yellow sign at the jeep track, and follow the track along the north side of the Khaldeschala River and through the village of Khalde. From Khalde, continue another 3 km to reach Iprari, the first village in Kala, the collective name for the villages here. 

At the village of Lalkhori, turn left at the T-junction, and follow the road for about 700 m until you reach another road turning left towards Davberi. Take this road west through the town. Right before you reach the church, you will see a gate with a ladder propped against it. Climb over the gate, and follow the path right and uphill. It is a rather steep climb, but levels out after about 2 km for an enjoyable, relatively flat hike. The trail takes you through forests and meadows, and eventually descends and meets the road to the villages of Ushguli. Follow the road about 1 km to the fork, and take the road turning right, passing through the village of Murkmeli. After the village, the road rejoins the main road for the 350 m remaining to the other villages comprising Ushguli. 

Alternate Route: Only experienced hikers should attempt this unmarked route to Ushguli over the Lagem Pass. The route is steep and the trail is not always visible. Therefore, having a GPX track of the route is essential. 

At the yellow sign and junction with the jeep track, continue straight through a marshy field, north of the shepherds’ huts, to the river. There is a trail down to the bridge over the river, and up again through a field and forest. Continue through the forest through rhododendron bushes and heavy vegetation. Beware of hogweed here. The trail crosses a stream, then follows it until it reaches another branch of the stream. Cross over the first branch, and walk up on the ridgeline between the two branches. The trail ascends steeply through rhododendrons and tall, but flattened, vegetation. It can be muddy and slippery even in dry conditions, so take caution as you climb. When you reach the ridge, you are rewarded with views of Shkara ahead and Tetnuldi and Ushba behind you. Be careful of possible snow on the ridge itself early or late in the season. 

The trail descending from the ridgeline is easier to navigate than that ascending to the ridge and descends gently. Generally, this section is less muddy and easier to traverse than the ascending trail. Follow the trail down and across a dry streambed. The trail enters fields of rhododendrons and other vegetation, then opens into a field suitable for a rest spot. Continue descending through rhododendrons and vegetation, and at around 2550 m of elevation, the trail ascends a short distance before leveling out again and continuing to descend more gradually. 

Here, the trail turns south and crosses marshlands, so be prepared for muddy conditions. The path crosses a few dry streambeds as it takes you across the grasslands above the road to Shkhara Glacier. You’ll be able to see the road and at times Ushguli itself in front of you. The trail eventually meets the road from Ushguli to Shkhara Glacier. From here, continue walking south towards Ushguli, and you will reach the outskirts of the villages in approximately 1.5 km. 

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