#BlazetheTCT Day 10: Samsari Caldera to Pona
Welcome to Day 10 of #BlazeTheTCT!
Today, we leave behind the Armenian highlands and cross into the remote, volcanic beauty of Georgia’s Samtskhe-Javakheti region.
This route takes us from the windswept peaks of the Abul-Samsari Range, past serene Lake Tabatskuri– and one of the coolest nature conservation stories along the TCT– before descending through thick forests and into charming villages.
Get ready for a day filled with contrasts—harsh ridgelines giving way to soft meadows, and rocky trails leading into shadowy forests. And of course, some TCT backstory along the way.
Happy trails,
Meagan
TCT trail crew in Nedzvi Reserve. Photo by crew member Gio Asanidze.
Wave goodbye to the volcanic highlands
The day begins with one last look at the dramatic peaks of the Abul-Samsari Range as you carefully pick your way across the rim of Samsari Caldera. The volcanic landscape, with its jagged boulder fields and wide-open skies, has been your companion for days, but now it’s time to move on.
As you start your descent, the barren highlands of the Samsari Caldera slowly give way to softer pastures as you leave the high peaks behind.
Farewell to the striking Samsari Caldera. Analog photo by hiker Tom Runge.
Learn about local bird conservation efforts at Lake Tabatskuri
After a few hours of hiking, you arrive at Lake Tabatskuri, a stunning alpine lake framed by the small village of Tabatskuri on one side and the skyline of the Abul-Samsari range on the other.
The wind is fierce in the open landscape, so you find a sheltered alcove to rest in for lunch. As you watch the lake, you keep an eye on the shimmering lakeshore for birds.
Lake Tabatskuri. Analog photo by hiker Tom Runge.
Like the other lakes of this region, this is a hot spot for bird life– and in particular, it’s the last breeding ground in the Caucasus for the velvet scoter, a beautiful diving duck whose breeding and wintering range stretches from northern Europe down to Turkey.
The velvet scoter is one of the coolest wildlife conservation stories in the Caucasus– and since you’re passing right by this habitat on the TCT, we’d like to take a few minutes to share it with you.
Thirty years ago, there were an estimated 1,500 velvet scoters in the Caucasus, with seven breeding sites in Georgia, but by 2010, there had been no evidence of breeding populations in Georgia in years.
But in 2014, Georgian birdwatcher and ecologist Nika Paposhvili found a female velvet scoter and her nest on the island in Lake Tabatskuri. Against all odds, they had managed to maintain a nesting ground in a tiny corner of the island’s lake– and now Nika had proof
Nika Paposhvili holding a velvet scoter near Tabatskuri lake. Video still: Saxon Bosworth/OC Media
Nika threw himself into conservation efforts to protect the scoter population, with work by his organization Garieli– Georgian for “velvet scoter”– continuing to this day. Each year, they scan every meter of the island, checking and counting each female scoter and egg. When they were discovered, there were only 6 nests. Last year, there were over 40.
It’s been a massive effort with lots of community engagement– perhaps you’ll even see the velvet scoter mural in the village of Tabatskuri. But the future of the birds is still uncertain.
“The population that we have in Georgia is on the real edge of extinction,” Nika told Saxon Bosworth in an article for OC Media last year. “And we are human, but in my opinion, [just like] scoters [and] other animals, we belong to nature. […] We owe it to us to take care of them.”
Painting a velvet scoter mural in Tabataskuri. Video still: Saxon Bosworth/OC Media
To learn more about the conservation efforts around the velvet scoter and Lake Tabatskuri, we highly recommend checking out this article in OC Media and the moving film Mt. Velvet Scoter by Saxon Bosworth.
Cross the pass into Georgia’s lush forests
After a pleasant night camping or staying in a small guesthouse at Lake Tabatskuri, you climb one last pass in the high open shepherding terrain of Javakheti– and within mere minutes, the landscape changes sharply as you enter the forests of central Georgia.
It’s a long descent, the air slowly thickening around you, as you head for a short detour into the small ski resort town of Bakuriani. The town offers a perfect spot to resupply and grab a bite to eat before you head back into the wild.
The lush forests of central Georgia. Drone photo by trail crew member Gio Asanidze.
Hike the TCT’s new trail through Nedzvi Managed Reserve
As the day progresses, you make your way towards Nedzvi Managed Reserve, a protected area known for its thick forests and rugged cliffs.
The forests here are dense and full of life, with trees providing a canopy of shade. You pass through meadows filled with wildflowers, the air buzzing with the sound of insects and birds. It’s a stark contrast to the volcanic highlands you left behind, and a welcome change of pace.
Nedzvi is a place with a strong TCT connection. Back in 2021, it took us several scouting attempts to find a workable route to connect the north and south sides of the ridge, but we eventually found an old trail following the ridge and descending below the cliffs that had nearly disappeared into the overgrowth.
Scouting in Nedzvi in 2021. It took a few tries, but we eventually figured out a good connection.
In 2022 and 2023, our Caucasus Conservation Corps trail crews worked to re-open this old trail– and now you get to hike it!
Crew leader Vakho instructing a group of volunteers, June 2022.
But first, you take the night to appreciate the beautiful campsite at the base of the cliffs, just as several of our trail crews have before you. The air is cool and fresh, and the only sounds are the rustling of leaves, the gurgling of the nearby stream, and the distant call of birds.
TCT Trail Crew campsite below the cliffs in Nedzvi Reserve.
Climb the Nedzvi Ridge and descend to Zanavi
The next morning, you set out to climb and descend the ridge of Nedzvi Reserve along this old trail that TCT crews reopened in 2022 and 2023.
The climb starts out with one of the most brutally steep jeep tracks you’ve ever hiked (we’re sorry, we promise it’s worth it)… but you soon stop cursing the TCT’s name when you stumble on a rocky outcrop– and a panoramic view of last night’s campsite far below you, green hills rippling outward in all directions.
Cliffs on the trail in Nedzvi Reserve. Drone photo by trail crew member Gio Asanidze.
From here you climb into a pine forest, following a gently curving path to the ridge. You still need to mind your footing– it’s still an old trail, cleared of overgrowth rather than fully benched– but the occasional views poking through the forest canopy are spectacular.
Resupply in Borjomi
The trail eventually leads you to the small town of Zanavi, where you cross the main road that connects Tbilisi and Borjomi. Zanavi is the perfect place to hitch a ride into nearby Borjomi, a popular resort town.
Borjomi has a history as a health resort dating back to the imperial Russian era of the 1800s– and it’s still well-known for the supposedly curative powers of the area’s mineral springs (not to mention the ubiquitous Borjomi mineral water sold around the country). The town is nestled in a lush valley, surrounded by forests and mountains, and is positively booming with guesthouses and visitors from around the country in the summer– you’ll have no problem finding a place to stay.
Borjomi. Photo: Wikimedia Commons / Nika, Exotour.
Hike the new Trail #4 through Borjomi National Park
Borjomi National Park, one of the oldest protected areas in Georgia, is just a short distance away– and your next destination.
After quickly stopping to register at the ranger station, you follow the brand new Trail #4 through the park, climbing through a spectacular old-growth forest. This trail was closed for many years due to heavy treefall, but it’s been recently rebuilt and reopened by the national park– a very exciting development.
Borjomi’s park rangers have also made huge strides in advancing wildlife conservation in Georgia. So keep your eyes sharp for bear tracks, or the occasional red deer bounding by!
Take the cable car to Nunisi Resort
As you reach the next valley, you find yourself at the small settlement of Nunisi. Here you come across another hiker favorite: the Nunisi Resort with its distinctive cable car and– equally important– an “all-you-can-eat” mindset.
With a quick call to the owners, they ferry you across the stream on a 1950s cable car. Not a bad entrance. And after all, what’s a long hike without a few side quests here and there?
The Nunisi cable car. Photo by hiker Jeff Ballard.
Trace quiet trails to Pona village
The final stretch of the day takes you through the village trails and farm paths connecting small settlements from Nunisi to Pona. This is a quiet section, far from the tourist crowds, where the paths are used mostly by locals and animals.
There is some overgrowth on the trails here, to be sure– this section could use some trail work– but the overall experience is pleasant, with gentle valley views and the sound of birdsong accompanying your steps.
And you’re lucky today: one of the friendly village dogs has decided to follow you, dashing ahead with a grin.
It’s the perfect end to a section filled with contrasts, from the harsh beauty of volcanic peaks to the soft breezes of Georgia’s forests and fields.
You roll into the quiet, friendly town of Pona– and here’s where we’ll leave you, reflecting on the day with a new friend by your side.
So, you coming or not?
And that’s… drumroll… 1000km down on the TCT!
Stay tuned, and we’ll see you on the TCT tomorrow as we continue through the quiet river valleys of central and start our slow climb towards the high peaks of the Greater Caucasus.
We hope you’re enjoying coming with us on the trail and meeting some of the people and places behind it. Over our 15 days of hiking the TCT, we’re aiming to raise $30,000 to blaze new sections of the trail and to continue our work to make these spectacular areas accessible. And the countdown is on now– we’ve got 5 more days!
If you’ve enjoyed the trail in the past or are dreaming of hiking it someday, please join us to make these efforts possible. Donate $15 or more and share with 15 friends today to blaze the TCT.
Thanks for all your support, and happy trails – we’ll see you back on the TCT tomorrow!
Meagan & the TCT team
