#BlazetheTCT Day 7: Dilijan National Park to Tsater
Welcome to Day 7 of #BlazeTheTCT!
Today, we leave behind the forests of Dilijan National Park and head into the highlands as we make our way towards the canyons of Lori.
This section has a bit of everything: remote highland farmers with warm invitations, rolling green hills with beautiful campsites, dramatic canyons with raging rivers below, ancient monasteries tucked away on cliffsides, modern tourism initiatives that are revitalizing small villages, and– we are confident about this– the most unusual museum on the TCT.
So wave farewell to that charming Soviet trailer you camped next to, and let’s set off on an early-morning hike through the hills of Tavush.
Happy trails,
Meagan
Day 7: Dilijan National Park to Tsater
Hike through the rolling green hills of Tavush into Lori
You peek over the ridge you’ve just climbed to the south and wave farewell to the dense forests of Dilijan National Park far below.
Then you turn north. Here the terrain changes abruptly from steep cliffs and waist-high fields of wildflowers to rolling green hills.
It’s only the cows out to greet you this morning as you wind your way along a gentle dirt road through the valley.
It feels like your own little world up here as you make your way from fold to fold of these mountains. Occasionally you crest a small ridgeline, giving you sweeping views of the valleys far below and patches of wildflowers dotting the grassy slopes.
But no matter how remote you get in the Caucasus, it’s never too long before someone invites you in.
And lo and behold: here in the middle of nowhere, the dairy farmers have waved you over.
They pull out fresh cheese and watermelon, and you’re grateful for the shade and the sweetness of the snacks.
You hike on, cruising through the green carpet of the highlands.
And up here, you quietly cross the province of Tavush into Lori. One more province down!
As the sun begins its descent, you find a perfect spot to set up camp– right next to a small picnic shelter and a beautifully engraved spring. The water is cool and refreshing, perfect for refilling your bottles and washing off the dust of the day off your sore feet.
With the stars beginning to twinkle overhead, you settle in for a peaceful night.
Visit UNESCO World Heritage Sanahin Monastery and resupply in Alaverdi
After a few days in the highlands, you watch the terrain turn more rocky as you gradually descend on a spectacular ridge walk toward the bustling mining town of Alaverdi.
But first on the list is a visit to Sanahin Monastery, which dates back to the 10th century and was at one point a vibrant educational center teaching theology, philosophy, rhetoric, music, medicine, calendars, and other sciences. It was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site along with nearby Haghpat Monastery in 1996— the first officially designated UNESCO cultural heritage sites in Armenia.
Pilgrims to the two monasteries would inevitably compare the sites, leading to their contemporary names. Fun fact: The name Haghpat means “huge wall” thanks to one of its striking features, and Sanahin translates as “older than the other,” presumably a slight dig at the other monastery further down the gorge.
After exploring the monastery grounds, you continue downhill into the city of Alaverdi, tucked inside the Debed Gorge.
The contrast is striking—after days up high, the town’s activity feels almost overwhelming. But it’s also a welcome opportunity to shower and sleep at a guesthouse, grab a hot meal, and pack some fresh lavash for the road.
Hike the historic trails of Debed Canyon
After stocking up on supplies in town and resting up at a local guesthouse, it’s time to leave Alaverdi behind– this time heading deep into the canyons.
The Debed, Dzoraget, Pambak and Marts canyons are all packed with ancient, forgotten footpaths between villages and historic monuments. When our team set out to rediscover and map them all out, we discovered a much bigger network than we expected.
With plenty of help from our partners and collaborators, the last five years have seen many of these trails cleared, rebuilt, way-marked and signposted – a massive effort, and one that continues to this day! Finishing the blazing on the TCT in this region is one of our main priorities for this fundraising campaign.
Signage in the canyons of Lori.
The TCT skirts the gorges of the Debed Canyon, following ancient paths that have been used by travelers for centuries.
The canyon walls rise steeply on your side, the sheer cliffs a testament to the natural forces that have shaped this landscape over millennia.
An incredible old stone staircase in the Debed Canyon.
A highlight as you traverse the canyon is Kobayr Monastery, one of Armenia’s most impressive semi-ruined monasteries.
It’s also one of our favorites, thanks to its tangible history of cultural exchange. Kobayr has a name that reflects its mixed Georgian and Armenian heritage: the words kob in Georgian and ayr in Armenian both mean ”cave”, so the complete name translates as ”cave-cave”.
Much of the complex has fallen into the gorge below, but the roofless apse and parts of the other walls survive, with Georgian-style frescoes in the apse and chapel which were restored in 1971.
Kobayr Monastery
Stop at the Soviet Matchbox Label Museum in tiny Tumanyan
And here you take our advice: You absolutely must veer off the trail into the tiny industrial town of Tumanyan.
Tumanyan is one of the coolest stories of rural development along the TCT in Armenia yet– benefiting from the influx of hikers thanks to the newly opened trails, to be sure, but also with an energy all its own.
Much of that is thanks to entrepreneur and friend of the TCT Raffi Kojian, who has dedicated huge amounts of energy to reviving depopulating Tumanyan. Now hikers can stay at one of the region’s most charming hostels– renovated from an old bath house– as well as stock up on key supplies for hiking at the general store. As of this year, there’s even a new library, open to all.
And there’s also the Tumanyan Matchbox Label Museum, a collection of tiny matchbox labels painstakingly curated over the years. The museum features a huge number of labels from the USSR and beyond, reflecting an era when the matchbox itself was an important space for advertising and PSAs.
Offbeat? Yes. Worth visiting? Don’t you dare miss it.
Historic matchbox labels at the Tumanyan Matchbox Museum.
Traverse the walls of the Debed Canyon
The elevation gain is tough as you climb the steep canyon walls, but you’re soon rewarded with views over the jagged canyons. You follow the TCT along a little-known historic route, tracing the gorge below the uppermost strata of rock cliffs.
With Tumanyan far below you now, the trail continues along the canyon walls, offering breathtaking views of the Debed River as it winds its way through the valley below.
As the sun begins to set, the village of Tsater comes into view. This small, picturesque settlement at the edge of the canyon is the perfect place to end the day.
You’re welcomed at cozy Tsater Guesthouse overlooking the canyon, where the hosts greet you with warm smiles and a hearty meal– the perfect place to rest up and learn more stories of the region.
And that’s 700km down on the TCT.
Stay tuned… and we’ll see you on the TCT tomorrow as we continue through the canyons of Lori, cross into the steppes of Shirak, and finish the TCT Armenia national section at Lake Arpi National Park!
We hope you’re enjoying coming with us on the trail and meeting some of the people and places behind it. Over our 15 days of hiking the TCT, we’re aiming to raise $30,000 to blaze new sections of the trail and to continue our work to make these spectacular areas accessible.
This section around Lori is one of our biggest priorities for trail blazing and signage for this campaign so that we can fully open these incredible historical trails to hikers.
If you’ve enjoyed the trail in the past or are dreaming of hiking it someday, please join us to make these efforts possible. Donate $15 or more and share with 15 friends today to blaze the TCT.
Thanks for all your support, and happy trails – we’ll see you back on the TCT tomorrow!
Meagan & the TCT team
