Bash Kungut – Sheki

Bash Kungut – Sheki : 31.7 km, +2220m/-2227m (E → W)

This challenging yet magnificent begins in Bash Kungut, from where the route ascends through forested chestnut groves, and breaks above the treeline into vast pastures. You’ll traverse along the backside of the mountain with amazing views of the main ridge of the Greater Caucasus, stretching toward the northern Caucasus beyond the border.

Along the way, you’ll pass shepherd shelters and have the option to take a short detour to Khan Yaylagi (The Khan’s Pastures), a historic summer retreat of the Sheki Khans perched at 2100m with a commanding view of Sheki below. The final stretch involves a steep descent into Sheki, where you can replenish supplies, explore the town’s historic charm, and enjoy its urban comforts.

Alternatively, if you’d rather bypass the city, you can take a dirt car road directly into Markhal and Kish villages… but we strongly encourage taking the opportunity to experience Sheki while you’re here!

Trail conditions

The TCT crews worked on clearing the ascent from Bash Kungut in 2022, but hikers should be prepared with GPS navigation in case of overgrowth along the forested climb.

• Above the treeline, the route follows animal tracks that may crisscross, requiring careful attention to navigation.
• The descent into Sheki follows steep, deep dirt tracks through the forest. This section is marked by the Azerbaijan Tourism Board, with signage installed by a local Sheki resident.

Predictable trail issues include:

• Potential overgrowth on the initial ascent if the trail has not been maintained recently.
• Faint paths above the treeline, as animal tracks can diverge.
• Steep and slippery descent into Sheki, particularly in wet conditions.

Water

Water sources are available near shepherd shelters, typically from spring-fed troughs, but they require minor detours off the main path. You can stock up at the start in Bash Kungut and carry enough for the ascent and highland sections.

Trail access 

On the eastern side, Bash Kungut is accessible via asphalt roads transitioning into village dirt roads. The trail into the forest starts past the Kungut Hotel & Restaurant (Küngüt İstirahət Mərkəzi). There is a spring near the hotel, making it a good place to fill up on water before setting off.

On the western side, Sheki, a major town and district center, is accessible by bus or taxi. The trailhead is near Sheki’s outskirts, allowing easy access into town for resupply and accommodation.

Trail amenities

In Bash Kungut, you can choose from a variety of accomodations. A beautiful and cozy homestay is available with Qadir (+994 55 865 50 78). Kungut Hotel & Restaurant at the trailhead offers food, lodging, and a scenic patio that once served as a TCT crew basecamp. The village breadhouse is a must-visit… be sure to follow the scent of freshly baked bread!

As a larger town, Sheki offers extensive amenities, including markets, restaurants, and hotels. Additional lodging and food recommendations are noted in the Sheki-Kish trail notes.

Cultural heritage sites

Khan Yaylagi (The Khan’s Pastures): Historically, this was the summer retreat of the Sheki Khans in the 18th-19th centuries. The Khan and his household would retreat here to escape the summer heat. The area is dotted with wild fruit trees, remnants of the historic pastures, which still bear fruit today.

Trailmaker’s Notes 

Bash Kungut holds a special place in the history of TCT’s trail development in Azerbaijan. This was the site of the first-ever TCT trailwork camp in the country! The volunteers who worked on this section had just returned from their first trailwork experience in Georgia, and applied their new trailbuilding and leadership skills to clearing the forested path above Kungut. Bob Birkby, renowned trail-building master from the US, also attended the first part of our camp.

A legendary gate was built at the request of locals to prevent animals from wandering unnecessarily into the forest. The Kungut Hotel became an unofficial TCT basecamp with their warm hospitality, where the crew would take refuge on rainy days with backgammon games by the samovar.

Many scouting nights were spent at Qadir’s homestay. We still fondly think back to his family’s hospitality and dreamy breakfasts in the garden!